Glittens

I bought some glittens (fingerless gloves that convert into mittens) last year and they were great to wear. Unfortunately they were quite thin and had worn through the thumb by the end of the winter. So I have had in mind to find a pattern and make some for the coming winter.

Through Ravelry, I found a great pattern by Dawn Beck , which is available for free. You can access it here.

Here is the first pair I have made.

You can see details of the yarn used etc on my Ravelry page, here.

This is a great pattern - everything is explained really clearly. I’m planning on making these for all the family and maybe some friends. The first pair I have made I used 4 mm needles but I think for the next pair I will use 3.75 mm needles for a snugger fit.

A great way to use up oddments from the stash. The only snag is I keep getting tangled up with all the double pointed needles - maybe by the time I get to the last pair I will have mastered their use.

Meret Beret

Here's a hat I made recently.
The pattern is by Woolly Wormhead, and is available as a free Ravelry download.

The pattern calls for worsted weight yarn and uses one and a bit balls. Very quick and easy to make. It's supposed to be knitted in the round but I did my usual of adapting it to straight needles.

I love the colour of this hat and it is very easy to wear.

The pattern gives options for variations on the beret. I chose to make the slouchy version with a rolled and ribbed brim. Full detials of the yarn etc I used can be seen on my Ravelry page here.

Olivia pattern

PDF version
A very feminine mohair cardi with ribbed sleeves, an all over eyelet pattern and a crocheted edging.

To fit bust 32 inch (81 cm)

Actual bust measurement – 34 inches (86 cm)
Length – 18 inches (45 cm)
Sleeve seam – 17.5 inches (44 cm)

Requirements

7 x 50g balls of DK mohair yarn. I used Sublime Angora Merino (120 m / 130 yards per ball). Unfortunately this yarn is now discontinued.
4mm and 3.25 mm knitting needles
3.5 mm crochet hook
8 buttons

Tension
21 sts and 30 rows to 10 cm (4 inches) measured over pattern.

Abbreviations
k = knitp = purlsts = stitchestog = togethertbl = through back of loopsyon =yarn over needle
alt = alt
dec = decRS = right side
WS = wrong side
dc = double crochet (US = single crochet)
ch = chain

BACK

With 4mm needles, cast on 89 sts.

Work in garter st for 4 rows.

Beginning with a knit row, stocking st 2 rows.

Commence eyelet pattern, working 12 row repeat 6 times.

Eyelet pattern

Row 1: k2, (K1, k2tog, yon, k5) repeat to last 7 sts, k1, k2tog, yon, k4.

Row 2 and all even rows: purl

Row 3: k2, (k2tog, yon, k twice into next st, yon, k2tog tbl, k3) repeat to last 7 sts, k2tog, yon, k twice into next st, yon, k2tog tbl, k2.

Row 5: k2, (k1, k2tog tbl, yon, k2tog, k4) repeat to last 8 sts, k1, k2tog tbl, yon, k2tog, k3.

Row 7: k6, (K1, k2tog, yon, k5) repeat to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 9: k6, (k2tog, yon, k twice into next st, yon, k2tog tbl, k3) repeat to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 11: k6, (k1, k2tog tbl, yon, k2tog, k4) repeat to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 12: purl.

Important Note: The number of stitches increases on rows 3, 4, 9 and 10. This should be taken into account when counting stitches.

Work should measure 25.5 cm.

Shape armholes

Keeping pattern correct, cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows.

Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 rows.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 2 alt rows. 67 sts.
Continue straight until armhole measures 18cm, ending with a WS row.

Shape shoulders and back neck
Cast off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Cast off 5 sts at beg of next row, pattern until there are 9 sts on right hand needle, turn, leaving remaining sts on a holder. Working on 9 sts only, cast off 4 sts at beg of next row. Cast off remaining 5 sts.

Leave central 29 sts on holder for back neck, with RS facing rejoin yarn to remaining 14 sts, pattern to end.
Cast off 5 sts at beg of next row.
Cast off 4 sts at beg of next row.
Cast off remaining 5 sts.


LEFT FRONT
With 4mm needles, cast on 45 sts.

Work in garter st for 4 rows.

Beginning with a knit row, stocking st 2 rows.

Commence eyelet pattern, working the 12 row repeat 6 times in total.

Eyelet pattern

Row 1: k2, (K1, k2tog, yon, k5) repeat to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 2 and all even rows: purl

Row 3: k2, (k2tog, yon, k twice into next st, yon, k2tog tbl, k3) repeat to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 5: k2, (k1, k2tog tbl, yon, k2tog, k4) repeat to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 7: k6, (K1, k2tog, yon, k5) repeat to last 7 sts, k1, k2tog, yon, k4.

Row 9: k6, (k2tog, yon, k twice into next st, yon, k2tog tbl, k3) repeat to last 7 sts, k2tog, yon, k twice into next st, yon, k2tog tbl, k2.

Row 11: k6, (k1, k2tog tbl, yon, k2tog, k4) repeat to last 8 sts, k1, k2tog tbl, yon, k2tog, k3.

Row 12: purl.

Work should measure same as back to start of armholes.

Shape armholes
Cast off 4 sts at beginning of next row.
Work 1 row.
Dec 1 st at armhole edge on next 5 rows.
Dec 1 st at armhole edge on next 2 alt rows.

Work until 16 rows less than back to start of shoulder shaping have been completed, ending with a WS row.

Shape neck
Pattern to last 14 sts and turn. Leave these 14 sts on a holder for neckband. 20 sts.
Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 4 rows. 16sts.
Dec 1 st at neck edge on following alt row. 15 sts.
Work 9 rows straight.

Shoulder shaping
Cast off 5 sts at beginning of next and 2 following alt rows.

RIGHT FRONT
With 4mm needles, cast on 45 sts.

Work in garter st for 4 rows.

Beginning with a knit row, stocking st 2 rows.

Commence eyelet pattern, working the 12 row repeat 6 times in total.

Eyelet pattern

Row 1: k6, (K1, k2tog, yon, k5) repeat to last 7 sts, k1, k2tog, yon, k4.

Row 2 and all even rows: purl

Row 3: k6, (k2tog, yon, k twice into next st, yon, k2tog tbl, k3) repeat to last 7 sts, k2tog, yon, k twice into next st, yon, k2tog tbl, k2.

Row 5: k6, (k1, k2tog tbl, yon, k2tog, k4) repeat to last 8 sts, k1, k2tog tbl, yon, k2tog, k3.

Row 7: k2, (K1, k2tog, yon, k5) repeat to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 9: k2, (k2tog, yon, k twice into next st, yon, k2tog tbl, k3) repeat to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 11: k2, (k1, k2tog tbl, yon, k2tog, k4) repeat to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 12: purl.

Work should measure same as back to start of armholes.

Shape armholes
Work 1 row.
Cast off 4 sts at beginning of next row.
Dec 1 st at armhole edge on next 5 rows.
Dec 1 st at armhole edge on next 2 alt rows.

Work until 15 rows less than back to start of shoulder shaping have been completed, ending with a RS row.

Shape neck
Pattern to last 14 sts and turn. Leave these 14 sts on a holder for neckband. 20 sts.
Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 4 rows. 16sts.
Dec 1 st at neck edge on following alt row. 15 sts.
Work 9 rows straight.

Shoulder shaping
Cast off 5 sts at beginning of next and 2 following alt rows.

SLEEVES
Cast on 46 sts using 3.25 mm needles.

Row 1: (k2, p2) to last 2 sts, k2,
Row 2: (p2, k2) to last 2 sts, p2.

Repeating these 2 rows work a total of 10 rows.

Continuing in 2x2 rib as set, change to 4 mm needles and increase 1 st at each end of next and 9 following 10th rows. 66 sts.

Continue without shaping until sleeve measures 40 cm ending with a WS row.

Next row, k13 (inc in next st, k12) 3 times, inc in next st, k13. 70 sts.
Purl 1 row.

Commence eyelet pattern as follows, working only 1 pattern repeat:-

Row 1: k5, (K1, k2tog, yon, k5) repeat to last 9 sts, k1, k2tog, yon, k6.

Row 2 and all even rows: purl

Row 3: k5, (k2tog, yon, k twice into next st, yon, k2tog tbl, k3) repeat to last 9 sts, k2tog, yon, k twice into next st, yon, k2tog tbl, k4.

Row 5: k5, (k1, k2tog tbl, yon, k2tog, k4) repeat to last 10 sts, k1, k2tog tbl, yon, k2tog, k5.

Row 7: k9, (K1, k2tog, yon, k5) repeat to last 5 sts, k5.

Row 9: k9, (k2tog, yon, k twice into next st, yon, k2tog tbl, k3) repeat to last 5 sts, k5.

Row 11: k9, (k1, k2tog tbl, yon, k2tog, k4) repeat to last 5 sts, k5.

Row 12: purl.

Work should measure 44 cm.

Shape sleeve top
NB. Make sure only complete pattern repeats are worked.

Keeping eyelet pattern correct as set, cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 62 sts.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 rows.
Dec 1 st at each end of 2 following alt rows.
Dec 1 st at each end of 4 following 4th rows. 40 sts.
Work 1 row, ending with a WS row.

Dec 1 st at each end of next row and 1 following alt row.
Dec 1 st at each end of 3 following rows. 30 sts.

Cast off remaining sts. BUTTON BAND
With 3.25mm needles and RS facing, pick up and knit 76 sts along front edge of left front.

Knit 4 rows.

Cast off.

BUTTONHOLE BAND
With 3.25mm needles and RS facing, pick up and knit 76 sts along front edge of right front.

Knit 1 row.

Buttonhole row: K1, (k2tog, yon, k9) 6 times, k2tog, yon, k7.
Knit 2 more rows.

Cast off.

Join shoulder seams

NECKBAND
With 3.25mm needles and RS facing pick up and knit as follows:-
Pick up and knit 2 sts from top of right front buttonhole band,
Knit across 14 sts on holder,
Pick up and knit 16 sts from right front neck edge to shoulder,
Pick up and knit 4 sts from right back neck shaping,
Knit across 29 sts on holder for back,
Pick up and knit 4 sts from left back neck shaping,
Pick up and knit 16 sts from left front neck edge,
Knit across 14 sts on holder,
Pick up and knit 2 sts from top of left front button band. (101 sts)

Knit 1 row.

Buttonhole row: k1, k2tog, yon, k to end.

Knit 2 more rows.

Cast off.

Set in sleeves and join side seams.

CROCHET EDGINGS

Using 3.5 mm crochet hook and RS facing, dc (US = sc) around the hem.
Turn, 1 ch, 1 dc, (3 ch, 1 dc into next 3 dc) repeat to end.
Fasten off.

Repeat this edging for the neck edge.

Neaten all loose ends and attach buttons.

Olivia finished

Here it is at last, my lovely mohair cardi.

I'm really pleased with the styling of the cardi. It is just what I had in mind when I originally drew up the design. The buttons make it extra special.

The yarn wasn't very pleasant to knit with - Sublime angora merino - it shed all the time and the fibres kept getting up my nose - but it is soooo soft and gorgeous to wear. A number of other people who have used this yarn have said that it settles down once it is knitted up - so I'm quite prepared to forgive it.

Unfortunately the yarn is now discontinued, but I do have a number of balls in pink in my stash

Full details of the finished project can be seen on my Ravelry page here.

The pattern for this cardi will follow in the next post.

Patchwork Ball

PDF version
Sometimes it's nice to just sit and play with some yarn and a crochet hook! On one of my 'playing' sessions I started to make some plain hexagons and then thought about putting them together. By the end of the afternoon I had come up with this -

It's a patchwork ball that's lovely and squashy and interesting to look at.

The idea developed as I went along but basically it is 8 hexagons and 6 squares, joined to make a ball and decorated with embroidery and applique.

There are limitless possibilities for colour combinations.

I chose to use 4 different colours for the hexagons (2 hexagons in each colour) but used the same colour for all the squares.

The amount of embroidery and embellishment you want to incorporate in the project is entirely up to you. I decorated all the hexagons but left the squares blank.

I used DK yarn and a 3 mm hook, but any weight of yarn could be used. I would recommend using a hook that gives a tight gauge whatever weight of yarn is used.

Hexagons (make 8)

English crochet terms used
tr (English) = dc (US)

Using DK yarn and a 3 mm hook make 4 ch, sl st into 1st ch to form a ring.

1st round: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr (US dc) into ring, [1 ch, 2 tr into ring] 5 times, 1 ch, sl st into top of 3 ch.

2nd round: 3ch (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr into next tr, [(1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) into 1 ch sp, 1 tr into next 2 tr] 5 times, ( 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) into 1 ch sp, sl st into top of 3 ch.

3rd round: 3ch (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr into next 2 tr, [(1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) into 1 ch sp, 1 tr into next 4 tr] 5 times, ( 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) into 1 ch sp,1 tr into next tr, sl st into top of 3 ch.
Fasten off.

Squares (make 6)

Using DK yarn and a 3 mm hook make 4 ch, sl st into 1st ch to form a ring.
1st round: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr), 2 tr into ring, [1 ch, 3 tr into the ring] 3 times, 1 ch, sl st into top of initial 3 ch.

2nd round: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr into next 2 tr, [(1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) into ch sp, 1 tr into next 3 tr] 3 times, ( 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) into ch sp, sl st into top of 3 ch.
Fasten off. It is easiest to decorate the hexagons and squares before the ball is constructed.

The centres of the large flowers are crocheted as follows:
Using DK yarn and a 3 mm hook make 4 ch, sl st into 1st ch to form a ring.
3 ch (counts as 1st tr, 11 tr into ring, sl st into top of 3 ch. Fasten off.
I stuffed these lightly when applying them to the ball.

The heart motif is also crocheted, as follows:
Using DK yarn and a 3 mm hook make 4 ch.

1st round: 11 tr (US = dc) into 1st of the 4 ch. The other 3 ch count as first tr. Sl st into top of 3ch.

2nd round: sl st into next tr, (1 dc {US = sc}, 2 tr) into next tr, (2 tr, 1 dc) into next tr, sl st into next tr, (1dc, 2 tr) into next tr, (2 tr, 1 dc) into next tr, sl st into next 3 tr, (1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc) into next tr, sl st into next 3 tr. Fasten off.

The remaining decoration was all embroidered using DK yarn oddments. Anything goes. I’m particularly proud of the bee, which is made using bullion knots.

Once decorated the ball is constructed in two halves around a central hexagon as per this diagram:

When each half has been joined along all the seams, the two halves can be joined. Leave a small opening for stuffing (but do not overstuff), then close the opening.

I hope you enjoy making this.

Lace Wristlets

I've been very busy this last week, finishing Olivia and making lots of fun, quick and easy projects.

The trouble is I can't keep up with all the pattern writing and photographing.

I shall have to deal with everything one at a time - so here is the first completed project - Lace Wristlets.

They are crocheted and the pattern comes from this book, Crocheted Gifts, which I had borrowed from the library.

They were very quick to make. Each wristlet took less than an hour to make. I used some of my never-ending supply of Sirdar Crofter DK - very soft and the colours always give a great effect. The wristlets used less than half a ball of yarn.

A very pretty little something to wear before the winter gloves come out.

Charley the Unicorn

PDF version
Meet Charley the Unicorn - so irresistible.



Yarn – White DK yarn plus small amounts of green, pink and black. Silver lurex thread (I used Rowan lurex shimmer)
Hooks – 3 mm and 2 mm.
Notions – toy stuffing.

PATTERN
(English terms used)
dc (English) = sc (American)
Finished size – approximately 15 cm (6 inches) tall.

Head.
With white DK and 3 mm hook make 2 chain.

1st round: 6 dc (US sc) into 2nd chain from hook. Join with a slip st into 1st dc.

2nd round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, [2 dc into next dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)

3rd – 5th rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.

6th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (18 dc)

7th round : 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 2 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 2 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (24 dc)


8th – 11th rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.


12th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 2 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (18 dc)

13th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 1 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)

Stuff head at this point.

14th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog,] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc.
Fasten off and close opening.

Neck
Starting at base of neck, using white DK, chain 12. Join into a loop.
1st round: 1 ch, 1 dc (US sc) into each chain to end, sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)

2nd – 3rd rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.

4th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 1 dc] 4 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (8 dc)

Fasten off.

Sew to head and then stuff.

Ears
With white DK chain 3.

1st row: 1 dc into 2nd chain from hook, 1 dc into first chain, turn. (2 dc)

2nd row: 1ch, 1 dc into each dc, turn.

3rd row: dc2tog. Fasten off. Sew to sides of head.

Body.
With white DK and 3 mm hook make 2 chain.

1st round: 6 dc (US sc) into 2nd chain from hook. Join with a slip st into 1st dc.

2nd round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, [2 dc into next dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)

3rd round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (18 dc)

4th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 2 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 2 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (24 dc)

5th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 3 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 3 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (30 dc)

6th – 15th rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.

16th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 3 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (24 dc)

17th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 2 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (18 dc)
18th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 1 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)

Stuff body at this point.
19th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog,] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc.

20th round: 1ch [dc2tog] 3 times, continue to dc into each stitch working in a spiral for 3 rounds for tail. Fasten off.

Attach head and neck to body.

Legs
With green DK or colour of choice and 3 mm hook make 2 chain.

1st round: 6 dc into 2nd chain from hook. Join with a slip st into 1st dc.

2nd round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, [2 dc into next dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)

3rd round: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc. Break off green and join in white DK

4th – 10th rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
Fasten off. Stuff and attach to body.

Horn
With silver lurex and 2mm hook ch 12 and join with a sl st into a ring.
1st round: work 18 dc into the ring, sl st into 1st dc.

2nd round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 1 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)

3rd -4th rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.

5th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 2 dc] 3 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (9 dc)

6th – 8th rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.

9th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 1 dc] 3 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (6 dc)

10th round: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.

Fasten off and close ending at tip of horn. Stuff.

Attach to head between ears.

Mane
Cut a number of 5cm (2 inch) lengths of pink DK (or colour of your choice). Knot these in a line along the back of the head and neck and in a small group in front of the horn. Trim to size.

Tail
Cut 12 lengths of pink DK approximately 15cm (6 inches) in length. Tie the group of threads in the centre of the group and attach to the unicorn. Trim to size.

With black DK yarn embroider some eyes and eyelashes.

Special Request

Regular readers will know that I have crocheted quite a number of toys for Eve's friends - many by special request. Eve's friend Amy has been asking for some time now for a unicorn.

I couldn't find a ready pattern to my liking so I've adapted the Lionel Llama pattern to fit the purpose.

So meet Charley the Unicorn.

I hope she will be popular. I'll post the pattern details shortly.

Best Wishes, Lynda

Here's a card I have made for my sister, who has gone into hospital today.

I hope everything goes well, and that she'll be able to put the last twelve months firmly behind.

Stone Cosies

Because crochet projects can be quick and easily completed - they don't count as distractions!

So, last week, I ran up a trio of 'stone cosies'.

I used 4 ply sock yarn and improvised various circular motifs around each stone.

Fun to do - totally pointless - but maybe stones feel the cold too.

My DH thinks I need to get a hobby!

Another Cardi

I have run out of storage space - but that isn't going to stop me knitting more cardis and sweaters.

Here's the latest contribution to my storage crisis.

The pattern is Peace by Kim Hargreaves from her book Misty. Full details of yarn etc can be seen on my Ravelry page here.

The cardi is beautifully fitted - shaped nicely at the waist.

The only modification I made was to make the sleeves full length rather than three quarter length.

The yarn I used was picked up cheaply in a charity shop in Bracknell.

Beige isn't a colour I would normally choose but this one is subtly shaded with blues and greys.

I have, as promised, returned to my mohair cardi. I am about half way up the first sleeve and should certainly have this cardi finished by the end of next week. completing the written pattern may take a bit longer.

Racing ahead, I have already planned what's to be cast on next, another hat, another sweater and, yes, another cardi.

Grace and I went into Liverpool yesterday and bought yet more yarn. I now have so much yarn stock piled up and I do feel guilty. No more buying - just knit, knit, knit!

A Bit of a Distraction

My main knitting project, now that Grace's birthday is out of the way, is Olivia, the mohair cardi I am designing.

I'm making good progress with this and if I actually stuck to it I would have it finished by now - despite the fluff making me sneeze.

But - I am so easily distracted.

Grace bought the magazine, Inside Crochet, a few weeks ago and I was reaching for my crochet hook before you could stop me.

This capelet is made up of 42 hexagons.

I used a cheap yarn I've had in my stash for some time (details of pattern and yarn can be seen on my Ravelry page). It is a random-dyed yarn - purples and greens - it reminds me of witches and evil brews.

I don't know when I'll wear this capelet - but most of the time that isn't the reason why I make things - It's just the fun of the making that counts.

So now I should get back to Olivia - however, the fluff-factor does put me off a bit. So when we were sitting down to watch a DVD, Chocolat (watching it for the third time in as many weeks - but it is so good and Johnny Depp's Irish accent is hilarious) I grabbed some new yarn and started a new pattern.

The pattern is Peace by Kim Hargreaves from the book called Misty.

It's going so well, I've finished the back and I am half way up the left front.

When I get this one out of the way I will definitely, absolutely, most certainly, work on Olivia until it is finished!!