A fitted men’s sweater with Fair Isle pattern.
It is knitted in the flat with double knitting weight yarn.
To fit sizes small/medium, (medium/ large)
Knitted sizes
Chest 102 (112) cm / 40(44) inches
Length to shoulder 66(68)cm / 26(27)inches
Sleeve seam 51(53) cm / 20(21) inches
(Please note that I have only knitted up the small/medium size. The medium/large size pattern hasn't been tested by me.)
I used Sirdar Balmoral wool, silk,alpaca mix double knitting yarn (125m/135yds per ball).
9 (9) x 50g balls in main shade in black (ms).
1 x 50g ball in grey (cs1)
1 x 50g ball in navy (cs2)
1 x 50g ball in dark red (cs3)
1 x 50g ball in cream (cs4)
3.75mm (US 5) straight needles
4mm (US 6) straight needles
3.25mm (US 3) straight needles
Tension
22 sts and 31 rows to 10cm (4 inches) measured over plain stocking stitch using 3.75 mm needles.
Abbreviations
k = knit
p = purl
sts = stitches
tog = together
tbl = through back of loops
ms = main shade
cs = contrast shade
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
RH = right hand
Using 3.25mm needles and ms, cast on 116 (128) sts.
Row 1 (RS): (k2, p2) to end.
This row forms the rib. Repeat this row until work measures 6 cm, ending with a WS row and increasing 1 st at the end of the last row. 117 (129) sts
Change to 3.75mm needles and work in stocking stitch until work measures 31 cm.
Change to 4mm needles and work from chart to row 38, joining in and breaking off colours as required.
Shape armholes
Cast off 6 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows (rows 39 and 40 of chart). 105 (117) sts
Decrease 1 st at each end of next 9 rows (up to and including row 49 of chart). 87 (99) sts
Complete last two rows of chart. *
Change back to 3.75mm needles and working in ms and stocking stitch continue straight until armhole measures 23 (25) cm.
Shape shoulders
Cast off 7 (8) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Cast off 7(8) sts at beginning of next row and then knit until 12 sts are on RH needle, turn.
Working on 12 sts only, cast off 4 sts at beg of next row, purl to end.
Cast off remaining 8 sts.
With RS facing, place centre 35 (43) sts on a holder. Rejoin yarn to remaining 19 (20) sts, knit to end.
Cast off 7 (8) sts at beg of next row.
Cast off 4 sts at beginning of next row.
Cast off remaining 8 sts.
FRONT
Work as given for back to * (end of chart). Change back to 3.75mm needles and working in ms and stocking stitch continue straight until you have worked 20 rows less than on back to start of shoulder shaping.
With RS facing for next row, knit until there are 35 (37) sts on RH needle, turn, leaving remaining sts on a spare needle. Working on 35 (37) sts only, cast off 3 sts at beg of next row. 32 (34) sts
Decrease 1 st at neck edge on next 5 rows. 27 (29) sts
Dec 1 st at neck edge on 4 following alternate rows. 23 (25) sts
Dec 1 sts at neck edge on following 4th row. 22 (24) sts
Work a row, ending with a WS row.
Shape shoulders
Cast off 7 (8) sts at beg of next row and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 8 sts.
With RS facing, place centre 17 (25) sts on a holder. Rejoin yarn to remaining 35 (37) sts and knit to end.
Complete to match first side, reversing shaping.
With 3.25 needles and ms, cast on 60 (64) sts.
Row 1 (RS): (k2, p2) to end.
This row forms the rib. Repeat this row until work measures 6 cm, ending with a WS row and increasing 1 st at the end of the last row. 61 (65) sts
Change to 3.75mm needles and commence stocking stitch, work 2 rows.
Increase 1 st at each end of next row and 10 following 6th rows, and then on 5 (6) following 5th rows. 93 (99) sts
Continue straight until work measures 35 (37) cm.
Change to 4mm needles and work from chart to row 38, joining in and breaking off colours as required.
NOTE - the pattern for the medium/large sleeve has to accommodate the extra stitches into the pattern and so has a different starting and finishing point within the chart.
Shape sleeve top
Cast off 6 sts at beginning of next two rows. (rows 39 and 40 of chart)
Decrease 1 st at each end of next 5 rows. (up to and including chart row 45)
Dec 1 st at each end of next 3 (4) alternate rows. (up to and including chart row 51). 65 (69) sts
Change back to 3.75mm needles and working in ms and stocking stitch, dec 1 st at each end of following 4th row.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 12 (13) alternate rows.
Dec 1 sts at each end of next 5 (6) rows.
Cast off remaining 29 sts.
Join right shoulder seam.
With 3.25mm needles and RS facing, pick up and knit 22 sts down right front neck, knit across 17 (25) sts on holder, pick up and knit 22 sts up left front, pick up 4 sts from back left neck edge, knit across 35 (43) sts on holder, pick up and knit 4 sts from back right neck edge. 104 (120) sts
Work in K2 P2 rib for 10 rows. Cast off.
MAKING UP
Fasten off and neaten all loose ends. Join left hand shoulder seam. Set in sleeves and sew up sleeve and side seams.
!!!!!!Eres más que un encanto, un re-encanto!!!!!!!
ReplyDeleteYou are (more more MORE)a charm.
Hello there,
ReplyDeleteThank you for this pattern, it's beautiful and easy to follow. This is probably a rookie question but when you say "continue straight until armhole measures 23 (25) cm." do you mean 23cm. vertically from row 39 or 23cm around the circumference of the armhole?
Thanks, Bry.
Hello Bry,
ReplyDeleteThank you for your comment. The armhole measurement is vertically from the start of the armhole shaping, row 39. I hope this helps and sorry if this isn't clear in the pattern.
Hi Janet,
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for this pattern. I am a novice knitter and a getting through it fairly well (for my standards anyway!)
One point on which I wanted your advice. I have got to 'Shape armholes' and was wondering what method of decreasing you would recommend on this pattern?
Thank you!
Hi, so glad you like the pattern and are making good progress. For the decreases I simply knit or purl two stitches together.
DeleteI hope this helps.
Best wishes,
Janet
Hi. Yes, you are correct. The pattern is written for two sizes. The figures in brackets are for the larger size.
ReplyDeleteIs there a way to knit this as a solid color without the color chart? I'm somewhat new to knitting and I really like this pattern.
ReplyDeleteHi Dane,
DeleteThank you for your comment. Yes, it would be easy to change to just a solid colour for the whole sweater. When it comes it working the chart, just continue with the same size needles and make sure you work the number of rows indicated by the chart. I hope this helps.
Hello,
ReplyDeleteThis is my first big knit (I've made a few scarfs but nothing like this). Thank you so much for writing a sweater pattern that both looks good and is easy to follow. I've managed to knit right up until the shaping of the shoulders, that's when I unfortunately have gotten confused.
I have read a tutorial on how to turn in work. From my understanding, after we've turned the work the 12sts that were on the RH needle will now be on the LH needle, is that correct? Also for the following bit I am confused with what happens to the centre 35 (43) sts on the holder, in my head we're knitting past them (almost as though we were doing a twist/cable) but I don't understand what happens to them after this. Sorry if I'm being really dense, but like I say this is my first big knit. :)
Thank you again for such a wonderful pattern, I can't believe I've managed to get as far as the arm holes, before the ribbing was getting me trumped!
R
Hi R,
DeleteWell done on tackling this pattern. If you have got as far as the shoulder shaping you are doing very well.
Yes, when you have knit until there are 12 sets on your RH needle and turn, these will now be on the LH needle. These are the stitches you will work on to complete the right shoulder.
Once the shoulder is complete, with the right side of the work facing you, you will have the completed shoulder on the right and the remaining live stitches on the left. Before you start knitting again, place the required number of sts from the centre of the piece onto a holder for the back of the neck. You will then rejoin your yarn to the right hand edge of the remaining stitches to begin knitting to complete the left shoulder.
I hope this makes sense. If you have any more questions please do not hesitate to email me.
Good luck with the rest of your knitting, Janet.
Hi Janet,
DeleteThank you so much for your quick response. That makes complete sense, now just have to see if I can do it! I have also (rather embarrassingly) just realised that part of my not knowing what we do with the sts on the holder comes from not fully reading the pattern, I for some reason hadn't read the "Neckband" section. I shall have to remember for next time to read patterns thoroughly first!
Ryan
Hi Janet,
ReplyDeleteThis is my first sweater project and I am only beginner level in knitting.
I am now just starting from 'back' session, but I am reading through other session, just wanna confirm if my understanding is correct:
For shape armholes,
- when you said cast off 6 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, after the first 6 sts will continue to knit with stocking stitch?
- how about the end side of each row? should we cast off 6 sts too since armholes will be both side?
For Shape shoulder,
- I am trying to knit a bigger size sweater (begin with 150 sts), how many sts would you recommend to cast off here?
- when RS facing, how many sts would you recommend to put on holder?
For Front,
- do you mean we work same as back until the * sign step?
- what does this mean 'until you have worked 20 rows less than on back to start of shoulder shaping'
- how many stiches would you recommend to have on RH needles? (since i have 150 sts to start with)
Thats all for now, sorry if i have too much questions, trying to picture how to do this :)
Thanks in advance!!!
Cheers
Irene
Hi Irene,
DeleteI hope I can help you with your questions. You seem a bit confused about the armholes. When you get to the armholes, your first two rows will be -
Row 1 - cast off 6 sts, knit to end.
Row 2 - cast off 6 sts, purl to end.
150 sts seems a lot, it is difficult to scale up the pattern accurately. You could probably have a total of say 27 sts for each shoulder and about 50 sts for the back of neck.
For the front you work up to the asterisk of the back instructions and then start following the front instructions. You need to count the number of rows knitted for the back to the start of the shoulder shaping and work 20 less for the front to accommodate the neck.
As you are not using the stitch count in the pattern you may need to make adjustments along the way.
I hope that you manage OK.
Janet
Hello Irene. my husband is a size 40 and I am trying to knit a jumper for him and my son using your pattern although my son is a size 44/46. You do not give a pattern for a size 44/46 and I wondered if you could suggest how to adapt the pattern for the larger size because I want both jumpers to be similar. I am also omitting the pattern part since I want to do couloured bands in the colours of their favourite football team instead but I don't know whether to carry on with 3.75mm or 4mm needles after the rib. I am not a great knitter and wanted to keep yhings as simple as possible and couldn't find a pattern for a banded jumper and yours looked fairly somple, hence the reason I wanted to use your pattern. I also wanted the jumpers to be a surprise for their Xmas presents so any help would be much appreciated. Thanking you in anticipation.
ReplyDeleteHi Lorraine,
DeleteThe pattern is written for two sizes. The first figures in the pattern are for size 40 inch chest, the figures in brackets immediately following the first set of numbers are for size 44 inch chest.
If you are not doing the Fair Isle chart, there is no need to change to larger needles, just keep using the same size throughout the stocking stitch.
I hope this helps.
Hi, Janet. Sorry I called you Irene before. I don.t know where I came up with that name. Thank you also for your help. I'm getting on great so far. :-)
DeleteNo.problem, glad it's going well.
DeleteHello again Janet. I have managed to follow the instructions up until this point : Shape shoulders
DeleteCast off 7 (8) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Cast off 7(8) sts at beginning of next row and then knit until 12 sts are on RH needle, turn. Now I am confused. I am knitting on the right side and got to the part where it says :12 sts are on RH needle, turn. So my 12 stitches are on my LHS needle. Do I now turn my knitting to the wrong side and purl until 12 stitches are left, leaving 12 stitches at each end and the remaining middle section on a holder or do I finish kitting the row on the right side then turn and then start casting off on the last 12 sts on the purl side ? I think some of us are getting fairly confused at this part so could you please make it idiot proof for folks like myself and go through it exactly as to how we should be seeing it. I know you already explained this part earlier to someone else but unfortunately that got me more confused. lol Thanks. :-)
.
Hi Lorraine,
DeleteGlad you have made good progress so far.
For the shoulders, you will work initially on the RH shoulder. When you are asked to cast off 7(8) sts for the third time, you will have 1 st on the RH needle immediately after casting off these sts. Knit a further 11 sts - there are now 12 sts on your RH needle. These 12 sts will form the right shoulder. Ignore the remaining sts on your LH needle - these will become the back neck and left shoulder. Concentrate on the 12 sts - turn your work, wrong side is now facing you and the 12 sts are now on the LH needle. You are now ready to complete the RH shoulder - cast off 4 sts, purl to end. Then cast off the remaining 8 sts.
You will then return to the remaining sts for the back neck and left shoulder.
I hope I have managed to explain things better for you. Please do not hesitate to email me if you need any further help.
Best wishes,
Janet
Hi Janet, is it Ok to use any 8 ply wool of choice, and how many balls of the main colour would you need for the largers size?
ReplyDeleteDonna
Hi Donna,
DeleteThanks for your message. Yes you can use any 8 ply of your choice. The yarn I used was 125 metres (135 yards) per ball. You would need 9 balls for the larger size but if your yardage is less than mine you will need to move up to 10 balls.
I hope this helps.
Janet
Hi Janet, this is a great looking pattern! I was wondering if it would work with worsted weight (10 ply) yarn as that is all i have. I'm fairly new at knitting, would I just work it up per the measurements given and watch it as I go or is there more to it than that? Any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
Scott
Hi Scott,
DeleteThanks for your message. Worsted weight is thicker than DK which means that your work will be bigger. For DK I had 22 sts and 31 rows per 10 cms / 4 inches. You can follow the pattern and you will get a larger sweater, the only problem is the armholes. The top of the sleeve is based on a specific number of rows whereas the armhole shaping on the corresponding body part is worked according to length. You would need to make the armhole on the body sections longer to accommodate the extra bulk of the top of the sleeve, otherwise you would end up with a puffed sleeve! If you knitted up a sleeve before the body sections you should be able to judge how much to add to your armhole length. I would recommend knitting up a small square to check your tension before you start. This will give you an indication of what the eventual size difference will be.
I hope this helps but if you need any further assistance please do not hesitate to email me.
Best wishes,
Janet
Hi Janet I'm having trouble getting my head around the sleeve instructions. Please could you explain "Increase 1 st at each end of next row and 10 following 6th rows, and then on 5 (6) following 5th rows. 93 (99) sts" how do I get from 65 to 99 stitches? Thanks, Lou x
ReplyDeleteHi Lou,
DeleteThanks for your message. I hope I can help. I'm assuming you are knitting the second size.
After working the first two stocking stitch rows, you increase 1 stitch at each end of the next row (67 sts). You then work 5 rows straight and then increase at each end of the next row - these six rows are repeated a total of ten times. The rate of increasing changes now. Work 4 rows straight, then increase each end of the next row - these five rows are repeated a total of six times. This gives a total of 17 increase rows, which takes the 65 sts up to 99 sts.
If you take the first increase row as row 1, you will increase on rows 1, 7, 13, 19, 25, 31, 37, 43, 49, 55, 61, 66, 71, 76, 81, 86 and 91.
I hope this makes things clearer for you.
Janet
Perfect sense! Thank you. It's my first jumper so I'm still getting my head around various terminology. But thank you for providing such a great easy to follow pattern!
DeleteGlad that I could help.
DeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteThis is my first sweater project, and I am finding it going well so far. I have made it up to the front bit after finishing the chart and am now a bit confused. After turning the work and casting off 3 stitches, the instructions say to decrease 1 stitch at the 'neck edge.' I am wondering which end this is? Am I decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning, immediately after casting off or am I doing it at the end of the row?
Also, after completing this bit and placing the middle 17 sts on a holder it says to rejoin the yarn to the last 35 sts and 'complete to match the first side, reversing shaping.' Is this doing the opposite of what was done with the first 35 stitches after turning the work? I would so appreciate your clarification on this!
Thanks for your time and the lovely pattern!
-Meaghan
Hi Meaghan,
DeleteI'm glad the pattern is going well. You have made good progress getting so far.
For the neck shaping, you are initially working on what will be the left hand side. You have knitted across 35 sts and left the other sts to one side. The next row as you say is to cast off 3 sts at the beginning. This is a purl row. The next five rows you will be decreasing 1 st at the neck edge. This will be at the end of the row on a knit row and the beginning of the row on a purl row (it is the same edge as the 3 cast off sts).
The second part of the neck shaping, after you have put your middle sts on a holder will be worked the opposite way round. So decreases at the neck edge will be the beginning of a knit row and the end of a purl row.
I hope this clears things up for you.
Best wishes,
Janet.