Petal Wristlets

A few blog posts ago I mentioned the adorable wristlets featured in Mollie Makes issue #10 designed by Monika Siwak.  Here are the objects of desire. 

Well I have now managed to make a version for myself.  The original pattern called for #50 crochet cotton thread - not easy to get hold off and very fine and labour-intensive!  My version of the wristlets is made using #10 thread, so although the final wristlets aren't as fine and dainty as Monika's, I think they still look pretty damn good. 

Obviously I made them yellow and pink!  I changed the lacy frilly bit - mine has more 'petals' and I didn't do a picot edging. 

It took quite a number of attempts to get it right but I am pleased with the finished results - well worth the effort. 

Happy Valentines Day

Have a lovely Valentines Day. 

I used my sweetheart earrings pattern with double knitting weight yarn to make these quick and easy cards for my Valentines. 

Valentine Hearts

As a little decoration for the approaching Valentines Day, I crocheted some little hearts to scatter love around the house!

I used double knitting weight yarn, a 3 mm hook and my pattern for Sweetheart earrings.  Each heart takes less than 10 minutes to make - couldn't be simpler. 

February Birthday Card

Here's a quick pic of the card I made for my friend, whose birthday it was yesterday. 

Ribbons, flowers and lacy bits - always look good. 

Wonderful Gloves

I've recently bought the latest copy of the magazine Mollie Makes...

And I've fallen in love with the wonderful crocheted gloves featured on the front cover. 

Last night I had four attempts at starting the gloves but my crochet cotton is too thick, it needs a really fine yarn - which I don't have at the moment, but I'm not sure my eyesight could cope with anything too fine. 

I've tried adjusting the pattern to suit my yarn but I can't get it right.  I shall have to rethink this because those gloves are utterly irresistable and my life is incomplete without them!!!

My Patterns for Sale? - I Think Not

I've recently been notified that one of my FREE patterns is available for sale on another website!!!!

I love designing and making things and part of the pleasure in this is sharing the patterns with everyone and seeing the results of their work, especially on Ravelry. 

I make no financial profit from my patterns so I don't think anyone else should exploit my time and effort by offering for sale what I give FREELY. 

If you ever come across one of my patterns for sale on another site, please let me know. 

On a happier note, here is a picture of Parky the Polar Bear. 

Parky the Polar Bear

He was made by Linda Kennedy from my Arthur the Polar Bear pattern.  Great job Linda. 

Paddington Bear Pattern

“Please look after this Bear”
Mr and Mrs Brown first met Paddington on a railway platform. In fact, that was how he came to have such an unusual name for a bear, for Paddington was the name of the station.
From A Bear Called by Paddington by Michael Bond

For my Paddington I used:
100g balls of double knitting yarn (Sirdar Country Style) in brown, navy and red
3 mm and 3.50 mm crochet hooks (US sizes D and E)
Notions – toy stuffing, safety eyes, 3 toggles, black embroidery floss.

PATTERN
PDF version

English terms used
dc (British) = sc (American)

Finished size – approximately 29 cm (11 ½ inches) tall.

Body
With brown and 3 mm hook make 2 chain.
1st round: 6 dc (US = sc) into 2nd chain from hook. Join with a slip st into 1st dc.
2nd round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, [2 dc into next dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)
3rd round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (18 dc)
4th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 2 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 2 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (24 dc)
5th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 3 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 3 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (30 dc)
6th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 4 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 4 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (36 dc)
7th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 5 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 5 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (42 dc)
8th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 6 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 6 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (48 dc)
9th – 17th rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
18th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 6 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (42 dc)
19th - 22nd rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
23rd round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 5 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (36 dc)
24th – 27th rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
28th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 4 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (30 dc)
29th – 31st rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
32nd round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 3 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (24 dc)
33rd – 34th rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
35th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 2 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (18 dc)
36th round: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
Fasten off and stuff body. Do not close neck opening.

Head
With brown and 3 mm hook make 2 chain.
1st round: 6 dc into 2nd chain from hook. Join with a slip st into 1st dc.
2nd round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, [2 dc into next dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)
3rd round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 3 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1dc into next 3 dc] 2 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (15 dc)
4th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 4 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 4 dc] 2 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (18 dc)
5th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 5 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 5 dc] 2 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (21 dc)
6th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 6 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 6 dc] 2 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (24 dc)
7th round: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
8th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 3 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 3 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (30 dc)
9th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 4 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 4 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (36 dc)
10th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 5 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 5 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (42 dc)
11th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 6 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 6 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (48 dc)
12th round: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
13th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 7 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 7 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (54 dc)
14th – 16th rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
17th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 7 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (48 dc)
18th round: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
19th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 6 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (42 dc)
20th round: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
21st round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 5 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (36 dc)
22nd round: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
23rd round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 4 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (30 dc)
24th round: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
If using safety eyes, it would be advisable to fit these now, before the hole in the head gets too small.
25th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 3 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (24 dc)
26th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 2 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (18 dc)
27th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 1 dc] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)
Stuff head at this point.
28th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog,] 6 times. Sl st into 1st dc. Fasten off and close hole in back of head.
Attach to top of body.
Embroider a nose and mouth with black embroidery floss.

Ears
With brown and 3 mm hook make 2 chain.
1st round: 6 dc into 2nd chain from hook. Join with a slip st into 1st dc.
2nd round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, [2 dc into next dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)
3rd round; 1ch, 2 ch into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next dc, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next dc, 1 htr and 1 tr in next dc, 1 tr and 1 dtr in next dc, 1 dtr and 1 tr in next dc, 1 tr and 1 htr in next dc, [1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc] 2 times, sl st into 1st dc.
Fasten off.
Sew on to side of head.

Legs
With brown double knitting and 3mm hook, chain 10.
1st round: 1dc into 2nd chain from hook. 1 dc into next 7 ch, 2dc into last chain. Working other side of foundation chain, work 2 dc into same place as last dcs. 1 dc into next 7 dc, 3 dc into the same chain as 1st dc worked. Sl st into 1st dc. (22dc)
2nd round: 1ch, 1 dc into same stitch as chain, 1dc into next 8 dc, 2 dc into next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 9 dc, 2 dc into 2 dc. Sl st into 1st dc. (26dc)
3rd and 4th round: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
5th round: 1 ch, 1 dc into next 7 dc, [dc2tog] 4 times, 1 dc into next 11 dc. Sl st into 1st dc. (22dc)
6th round: 1 ch, 1 dc into next 7 dc, [dc2tog] 2 times, 1 dc into next 11 dc. Sl st into 1st dc. (20dc)
7th – 13th rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
14th round: 1 ch, 1 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc in next 7 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc in next 8 dc, dc2tog, sl st into first dc. (18sts)
15th – 16th rounds: ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
Fasten off and stuff.
Sew to base of body.

Arms
With brown and 3 mm hook make 2 chain.
1st round: 6 dc into 2nd chain from hook. Join with a slip st into 1st dc.
2nd round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, [2 dc into next dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)
3rd - 7th rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
8th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 3 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 3 dc] 2 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (15 dc)
9th – 23rd rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
24th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 3 dc] 3 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)
25th round: 1 ch, [dc2tog, 1 dc into next 2 dc] 3 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (9 dc)
Fasten off and stuff.
Sew across the opening to close and attach arms to the sides of the body.

Hat
With red and 3 mm hook make 2 chain.
1st round: 6 dc (US = sc) into 2nd chain from hook. Join with a slip st into 1st dc.
2nd round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, [2 dc into next dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (12 dc)
3rd round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (18 dc)
4th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 2 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 2 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (24 dc)
5th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 3 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 3 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (30 dc)
6th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 4 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 4 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (36 dc)
7th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 5 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 5 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (42 dc)
8th round: 1 ch, working in back loops only, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
9th round: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
10th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 13 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 13 dc] 2 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (45 dc)
11th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 14 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 14 dc] 2 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (48 dc)
12th – 13th rounds: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
14th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 15 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 15 dc] 2 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (51 dc)
15th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 16 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 16 dc] 2 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (54 dc)
16th round: : 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 8 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 8 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (60 dc)
17th round: : 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 9 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 9 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (66 dc)
18th round: : 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 10 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 10 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (72 dc)
19th round: : 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 11 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 11 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (78 dc)
20th round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 12 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 12 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (84 dc)
21st round: 1 ch, 2 dc into same stitch as chain, 1 dc into next 13 dc, [2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 13 dc] 5 times. Sl st into 1st dc. (90 dc)
22nd round: 1 ch, 1 dc into each stitch to end, sl st into first dc.
Fasten off.

Duffle Coat
With 3.50mm hook (NB larger hook used for coat) and navy, chain 81.
1st row: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, (miss 1 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch) to end, turn (54 dc)
2nd row: 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc to end, turn.
Repeat row 2 six more times.
9th row: 1 ch, (1 dc in next 9 dc, dc2tog) 2 times, 1 dc in next 10 dc, (dc2tog, 1 dc in next 9 dc) 2 times, turn. (50 dc)
10th – 16th rows: as row 2
17th row: 1 ch, (1 dc in next 8 dc, dc2tog) 2 times, 1 dc in next 10 dc, (dc2tog, 1 dc in next 8 dc) 2 times, turn. (46 dc)
18th – 22nd rows: as row 2
23rd row: 1 ch, (1 dc in next 7 dc, dc2tog) 2 times, 1 dc in next 10 dc, (dc2tog, 1 dc in next 7 dc) 2 times, turn. (42 dc)
24th row: as row 2
Divide for armholes
Next row: 1 ch, 1 dc in next 8 dc, turn. (8dc)
Working on these 8 sts only for right front, work 1 dc in each dc for 5 further rows.
Fasten off.
With right side facing, miss 6 dc for armhole, rejoin yarn to next dc, 1 ch, 1 dc in same place, 1 dc in next 13 dc, turn (14 dc)
Working on these 14 sts only for back, work 1 dc in each dc for 5 further rows.
Fasten off.
With right side facing, miss 6 dc for armhole, rejoin yarn to next dc, 1 ch, 1 dc in same place, 1 dc in next 7 dc, turn (8 dc)
Working on these 8 sts only for left front, work 1 dc in each dc for 5 further rows, turn.
DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
Next row: 1 ch, 1 dc in next 8 dc, 4 ch, 1 dc in each of the 14 dc across back, 4 ch, 1 dc in each of next 8 dc of right front, turn.
Next row: 1 ch, 1 dc in next 8 dc, 4 dc in chain loop, 1 dc in next 14 dc, 4 dc in chain loop, 1 dc in next 8 dc, turn. (38 dc)
Next row: 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc to end, turn.
Increase row to form hood: 1 ch, 1 dc in next 10 dc, (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc) 6 times, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 9 dc, turn. (45 dc)
Next row: 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc to end, turn.
Repeat the last row 24 times more.
Fasten off.
Fold hood in half and sew up seam to form the hood.
Sleeves
With 3.50mm hook and navy, chain 30.
1st row: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, (miss 1 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch) to end, turn (20 dc)
2nd row: 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc to end, turn.
Repeat row 2 fourteen more times.
Making up
Fold sleeves in half, sew up seams and sew into armholes.
Sew three toggles on front of coat.
Make three loops of 16 ch each and attach these to the other front to correspond with the toggles.

As a final touch, you can always add the luggage label saying “Please look after this Bear”.

Paddington Bear

Ever since I was little I have loved Paddington Bear from the books by Michael Bond. 

Here are all my treasured books (did they really only only 3 shillings?  - that's 15 pence in new money).

And the adorable illustrations by Peggy Fortnam.

Here are some other pics of the wonderful, well-intentioned but accident-prone bear. 

For Christmas, just for laughs the girls bought me a Paddington Bear jigsaw, and this got me thinking -

So I decided to make my very own Paddington. 

I think he's wonderful - obviously I'm biased, but I do feel proud of him. 

I'm just putting the finishing touches to writing up the pattern and then I'll share it with you.

Another Card and Audrey

Here's a picture of a card I made for a friend's birthday. 

Delicate shades of pink and beige - very dainty. 

I've just finished watching an Audrey Hepburn DVD (whilst knitting, of course) - Paris When It Sizzles. 

It was a Christmas present and I've only just remembered I had it!! 

The film doesn't seem to have had very good reviews but I really enjoyed it - I think it has to be watched with tongue in cheek - it is very much a parody of the film business.  I thought it was very funny and Audrey as always is delightful.

I always feel I should smarten myself up when watching an Audrey film - elegance is a definite requirement.

Good Luck Grace

Grace has exams starting today - so lots of luck to her - looking forward to meeting up again when they are over. 

Here is the card I made for her. 

To anyone else out there faced with exams at the moment - I hope they go well.

Sneaky Peek

It's 10 days since I last published a post - doesn't time fly when you are completely distracted!  I've been fiddling around and researching more of my family tree - it is so addictive. 

Obviously I'm still making - knitting and crocheting as usual.  Just so that you don't think I've fallen a sleep I thought I would let you have a little sneaky peek at what I'm working on at the moment -

Such a cute bear - and he's not finished yet.  The completed version and pattern will follow soon.

Putting Christmas Away

I was all excited yesterday - because I thought it was the day all the Christmas decorations came down.  I started taking them down but when I was told it I was a day early I had to stop - so I defrosted the freezer instead!

Don't get me wrong - as you know I love Christmas - but once New Year has passed, the decorations start to look tired and it's time to move on.  More importantly - I want my table back!  When the tree goes up, my table has to move out to make room for it.  I miss my table - my "work station" - the place where I am organised. 

But today it is back. 

So it's goodbye tree (see you in 11 months time)...

And welcome back table...

With Eve's 18th birthday rapidly approaching - I need my table more than ever to make sure I have everything organised for the big event!

Some Knitted Christmas Surprises

Getting up-to-date at last!  Here are some photos of some of the surprises I knitted for my girls. 

Firstly, I sat these mice on their pillows on Christmas Eve night with a label saying "Twas the night before Christmas..." and then I put a special message for each of them in the mouse's stocking. 

The mice are based on a pattern by Alan Dart, you can see some of his amazing patterns here. 

I gave each mouse a lovely long night cap and a colourful stocking.

Each mouse is about 4 inches high - so cute - I'm really happy with these. 

This globe, I made for Grace. 

It's knitted in the round and is quite challenging but great fun to make. 

Details of the pattern can be seen at the Ravelry pattern page, here.   

I Remembered the Camera

On my early morning walks I occasionally wander down to the beach.  It's not a very exciting beach - no cliffs or rock pools - just lots and lots of sand - and of course the Iron Men. 

Inevitably I always think when I'm at the beach - I should have brought the camera with me!

Yesterday was just such a morning. The beach was almost deserted - just me, one dog-walker and the iron men.  It was a beautiful misty morning - so peaceful.  

So this morning I made sure I had my camera with me.  The lovely peacefulness of yesterday was gone - it was freezing cold with a very strong wind off the sea - but I did take some photos. 

This next one is looking south to the docks of Liverpool - you can see the Liver Building between the 2nd and 3rd wind turbines from the right. 

I didn't stay long on the beach - even the gulls were struggling with the wind - but at least I remembered the camera. 

Happy New Year

A very Happy New Year to everyone. 

I hope this year brings you lots of pleasant surprises and plenty of contentment. 

I enjoy this time of the year - the calm after the storm of activity associated with Christmas.  Now is the time to get organised and plan ahead.  I still haven't shared with you all the things I made for Christmas - I'll try and rectify this in the next few posts. 

In the meantime, here's a special little knitting project I've been working on since Christmas Day. 

Fifty years ago I was given a lovely doll for Christmas - I called her Wendy and I still treasure her - so to celebrate her 50th birthday I've made her a lovely new coat, hat and shoes.

My Mum gave me some knitting leaflets she no longer wanted and among them was this one. 

"Best of Friends: 12 fun outfits for your favourite doll and Teddy" - perfect, just what I needed. 

Wendy is very pleased with her new outfit. 

There was another leaflet with some knitted outfits for Action Man - I may make some of these next!!

Holly Pattern

A vintage-style, slim-fit cardigan with Fair Isle pattern and contrast coloured edgings.

PDF available here.

To fit 32” chest.
Finished measurements:
Chest 33”
Sleeve seam 18”
Length 21”

Requirements
2 x 100g balls of Sirdar Country Style DK (main colour) 318 metres / 348 yards per ball
I used shade 502 gemini
1 x 100g ball of Sirdar Country Style DK in four contrasting colours
I used shades 423 light pink, 411 cream, 609 pillarbox, 441 light navy and 595 highland burn
3.75mm and 3.25mm straight needles
8 buttons
Tension
22 sts and 29 rows to 10 cm measured over pattern.
Abbreviations
k = knit
p = purl
sts = stitches
k2tog = knit 2 together
k2togtbl = knit 2 together through back of loops
dec = decrease
m1= make 1
alt = alternate
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
yon = yarn over needle

BACK
With 3.75mm needles cast on 102 sts in red, knit one row.
Change to dark green,
Row 2 : (p2, k2) p2
Row 3 : (k2, p2) k2
Repeat last 2 rows 10 more times, then row 2 once more.
Row 25: k14(k2tog, k16) 3 times, k2togtbl, k16, K2togtbl, k14. 97 sts
Purl 1 row.
Commence Fair Isle from chart, and at the same time, decrease 1 st at each end of 5th and 3 following 4th rows. 89 sts

Pattern 9 rows.
Increase 1 st at each end of next and 3 following 8th rows. 97 sts
Pattern 17 rows (ending with pattern row 14).

Shape armholes
Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of the next two rows. 87 sts
Decrease 1 st at each end of next 3 rows.
Decrease 1 st at each end of next 3 alternate rows.
Decrease 1 st at each end of following 4th row. 73 sts
Continue straight until work measures 18 cm, ending with a WS row.

Shape shoulders
Cast off 9 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
Cast off 8 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
Leave remaining 39 sts on a holder.

LEFT FRONT
With 3.75mm needles cast on 51 stitches in red. Knit 1 row.
Break off red and join in dark green.
Row 2: (p2, k2) to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 3: k3, (p2, k2) to end.
Repeat last two rows until 24 rows have been completed.
Decrease row : k14, k2tog, k16, k2tog, k17. 49 sts
Purl 1 row.
Commence Fair Isle pattern from chart. Keeping pattern correct, decrease 1 st at beginning of 5th and 3 following 4th rows. 45 sts
Pattern 9 rows.
Increase 1 st at beginning of next and 3 following 8th rows. 49 sts
Pattern 17 rows without shaping ending with pattern row 14.

Armhole shaping
Cast off 5 sts at beginning of next row.
Work 1 row.
Decrease 1 st at beg of next 3 rows.
Decrease 1 st at beg of next 3 alternate rows.
Decrease 1 st at beg of following 4th row. 37 sts
Work 2 rows, ending with a WS row facing for next row.

Neck shaping
Cast off 8 sts at beg of next row.
Decrease 1 st at neck edge on next 5 rows.
Decrease 1 st at neck edge on next 5 alternate rows.
Decrease 1 st at neck edge on next 2 following 4th rows. 17 sts
Continue straight until armhole measures the same as back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with a WS row.

Shape shoulders
Cast off 9 sts at beg of next row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 8 sts.

RIGHT FRONT
With 3.75mm needles cast on 51 stitches in red. Knit 1 row.
Break off red and join in dark green.
Row 2: p3(k2, p2) to end.
Row 3: (k2, p2) to last 3 sts, k3.
Repeat last two rows until 24 rows have been completed.
Decrease row : k17, k2tog, k16, k2tog, k14. 49 sts
Purl 1 row.
Commence Fair Isle pattern from chart. Keeping pattern correct, decrease 1 st at end of 5th and 3 following 4th rows. 45 sts
Pattern 9 rows.
Increase 1 st at end of next and 3 following 8th rows. 49 sts
Pattern 17 rows without shaping ending with pattern row 14.

Armhole shaping
Pattern 1 row.
Cast off 5 sts at beginning of next row.
Decrease 1 st at end of next 3 rows.
Decrease 1 st at end of next 3 alternate rows.
Decrease 1 st at end of following 4th row. 37 sts
Work 3 rows, ending with a RS row facing for next row.

Neck shaping
Cast off 8 sts at beg of next row.
Decrease 1 st at neck edge on next 5 rows.
Decrease 1 st at neck edge on next 5 alternate rows.
Decrease 1 st at neck edge on next 2 following 4th rows. 17 sts
Continue straight until armhole measures the same as back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with a RS row.

Shape shoulders
Cast off 9 sts at beg of next row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 8 sts.

SLEEVES
With 3.25mm needles cast on 50 stitches in red. Knit 1 row.
Break off red and join in dark green.
Row 2: (p2, k2) to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 3: k2, (p2, k2) to end.
Repeat last two rows until 16 rows have been completed.
Change to 3.75mm needles and stocking stitch.
Increase row : k1, (k3, m1) to last 4 sts, k4. 65 sts
Purl 1 row.
Commence Fair Isle pattern from chart. At the same time, increase 1 st at each end of 7th row and 9 following 8th rows. 85 sts
Continue straight until sleeve measures 44 cm from cast on edge ending with a WS row (this should work out as pattern row 14).

Armhole shaping
Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 79 sts
Decrease 1 st at each end of next 7 rows.
Decrease 1 st at each end of 5 following alt rows.
Decrease 1 st at each end of following 4th row. 53 sts
Decrease 1 st at each end of next 4 alt rows.
Decrease 1 st at each end of next 7 rows.
Cast off 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 19 sts
Cast off remaining 19 sts.

MAKING UP
Darn in all loose ends.
Join shoulder seams.
Set in sleeves and join side and sleeve seams.

NECKBAND
Using 3.25mm needles, dark green yarn and with RS facing pick up and knit 40 sts from right front, knit across 39 sts from back neck, pick up and knit 39 sts from left front. 118 sts
Work 7 rows in k2, p2 rib.
Break off dark green and join in red. Rib one more row. Cast off in rib.

BUTTON BAND
With 3.25mm needles, dark green yarn and with RS facing pick up and knit 94 sts up left front of cardigan.
Row 1: (p2, k2) to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 2: (k2, p2) to last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat last two rows 2 more times, then row 1 once more (7 rows completed in total).
Break off dark green and join in red. Rib one more row. Cast off in rib.

BUTTONHOLE BAND
With 3.25mm needles, dark green yarn and with RS facing pick up and knit 94 sts up right front of cardigan.
Row 1: (p2, k2) to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 2: (k2, p2) to last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat row 1.
Buttonhole row (row 4): k2, p2, yon, k2tog,[ (p2, k2) x 2, p2, yon, k2tog] 7 times, p2, k2.
Work 3 more rows in rib.
Break off dark green and join in red. Rib one more row. Cast off in rib.

Sew 8 buttons onto button band to correspond with buttonholes.

Mini Christmas Trees

Here are some lovely little Christmas trees I made as a surprise for Christmas Day. 

They are about 5 inches tall.  They are knitted and decorated with star-shaped beads (from old bracelets the girls used to play with when they were very young).  They would also look good with round sparkly beads or sequins.

The pattern is available as a free Ravelry download, here.  OK so you may not want to make them right now - but you could add the pattern to your queue for next Christmas!

I used the trees to decorate the Christmas table and propped some name cards up against them to mark each place setting.